Short walks are possible on all the islands, but serious hikers will want to concentrate their efforts on Tahiti and Moorea. Trails are often difficult to negotiate - or downright dangerous - during the rainy season, from November to March. Unfortunately there are no proper maps available for walkers, but if you want advice on where to walk, or a guide to show you the path, contact the Visitors' Bureau in Papeete (00 689 50 57 10; www.tahiti-manava ).WHERE CAN I STAY?With the exception of Tetiaroa, all the islands have a variety of accommodation, from international chains to smaller, family-run hotels and guesthouses. Resort hotels, like the Moorea Pearl (00 689 55 17 50; www.pearlresorts ) and its sister resorts on Bora Bora, Tahaa and Raiatea, usually offer accommodation in individual bungalows, built on stilts over the water.Companies such as Kuoni (01306 741111; www.kuoni.co.uk) and Elegant Resorts (01244 897555; www.elegantresorts.co.uk) offer tailor-made packages to Tahiti. WHY GO NOW? Australia's second city may not have the glamour of Sydney, but its colonial heritage and multicultural dynamism more than compensates. This type of ceremony can be organised by a number of the larger hotels, or by the Tiki Village Theatre on Moorea (00 689 55 02 50; www.tikivillage.pf)..
The choice of event ranges from a simple ceremony on the beach at sunset to an elaborate production, involving lots of flowers and traditional music, with the bride being carried in on a throne while the groom arrives by canoe. That is why most people prefer to honeymoon on the island rather than marry there - or to stage a Tahitian "wedding celebration". This ceremony has no legal status but is a wonderfully romantic way to celebrate a marriage or anniversary. A WEDDING IN PARADISETo be legally eligible to marry in Tahiti you must work through a prodigious amount of paperwork, and be resident in French Polynesia for a month before the wedding. Some of the best waves are found in Teahupoo, at the end of the southern coast road on Tahiti Iti. The season here is from April to October, as it is along the west coast of Tahiti Nui. A lesson here costs CFP5,900 (£34).If you hope to see whales while beneath or above the water, the season lasts from July to October.ANY OTHER SPORTS I SHOULD TRY?All sorts of activities are available on the island, but surfing is one of the most popular, and many international competitions are held in Tahiti.
The cost of a dive, including equipment, starts at CFP7,000 (£40). Snorkelling, water skiing and other water activities are also on offer at Aquatica.Other centres that offer instruction to beginners include Mahana Dive (00 689 68 76 32; www.mahanadive ), which is located at the Hotel Relais Mahana on the southern tip of the island of Huahine. They knew I was one of the hip people; I wasn't the 'fuzz', or the 'heat'. But if the needle was passed to me I'd just say no."Not that Claxton was averse to other substances. "I loved pot, and it helped that I met Aldous Huxley around that time.